An Era of Nocturnal Glamour Closes: Anthony Vaccarello Steps Down After a Transformative Decade at Saint Laurent

PARIS — In the rarefied upper echelons of global luxury fashion, ten years is an eternity. Yet, for a decade, Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello commanded the house of Saint Laurent with a singular, unyielding vision, steering the Parisian powerhouse through an era of unprecedented financial growth, cinematic runway spectacles, and bold cultural expansion.

This morning, following weeks of mounting industry speculation and a poignant final runway gesture, Saint Laurent officially confirmed that Vaccarello has stepped down from his position as creative director of both the men’s and women’s wear lines. The announcement marks the end of one of the most commercially successful and aesthetically definitive tenures in modern fashion history, prompting immediate industry-wide discussions regarding the future of the Kering-owned label and the shifting landscape of luxury conglomerates.

1. The Main Facts: A Golden Swansong and a Passing of the Torch

The writing had quite literally been on the runway. Earlier this month, amid the glittering chaos of Paris Fashion Week S/S 2027, Vaccarello staged what would be his final collection for the house. Set against the majestic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and illuminated by three enormous chandeliers, the show was a masterclass in homage. Vaccarello reimagined the indelible hallmarks of founder Yves Saint Laurent—the trench coat, the safari jacket, rich brocade tailoring, and diaphanous ruffled blouses—drenched entirely in gleaming, light-catching shades of gold.

However, it was the post-show finale that provided the ultimate confirmation of rumors swirling among fashion insiders. As the applause died down, Vaccarello took his final bow, walked over, and handed a set of keys to his son, Luca. For those in the know, the gesture signaled a definitive closing chapter.

On the morning of the official announcement, the house released a statement praising the outgoing designer: "Anthony played a key role in Saint Laurent’s development, helping to strengthen its identity and influence across the worlds of fashion and culture."

While Vaccarello himself has yet to issue a personal statement regarding his departure or his next professional move, his imprint on the brand remains indelible. He leaves behind a house that he famously once described as "the holy grail of fashion houses."

2. Chronology of a Decade: From Independent Designer to Cultural Behemoth

To understand the magnitude of Vaccarello’s exit, one must retrace the trajectory of his ten-year reign, which began when he took the helm following the abrupt departure of Hedi Slimane in 2016.

Early Days and Establishing the Silhouette (2016–2018)

Coming off the success of his eponymous label and a celebrated stint designing for Versus Versace, Vaccarello lost no time establishing a precise, highly focused aesthetic for Saint Laurent. Eschewing fleeting trends, he rooted his vision in a mood of dark, nocturnal glamour and an unapologetically powerful femininity. Early collections established a recurring visual vocabulary: sharp, power-shouldered silhouettes, micro-minis, and razor-sharp tailoring cut with absolute architectural precision. By repeating these silhouettes season after season, he ingrained them into the cultural consciousness as the definitive modern Saint Laurent look.

Expanding Horizons and Cinematic Runways (2019–2023)

As his confidence grew, so did the scale of his presentations. Vaccarello transformed Saint Laurent shows into cinematic events. Women’s collections were predominantly staged in the open air at Paris’ Place du Trocadéro, always concluding precisely as the Eiffel Tower erupted into its synchronized nighttime light show.

Simultaneously, menswear broke geographical boundaries. Vaccarello took Saint Laurent men’s shows on a global tour, staging presentations on the sun-bleached sands of Malibu and deep into the Moroccan desert. Notably, his desert show was framed by a futuristic, glowing ring created in collaboration with stage designer Es Devlin (later the guest editor of Wallpaper’s October 2026 issue).

Venturing into Cinema: Saint Laurent Productions (2024–2026)

Perhaps Vaccarello’s most innovative structural contribution to the luxury house was the founding of Saint Laurent Productions. Under his guidance, the fashion house became the first in history to officially operate as a film production and financing agency. This division proved to be a critical darling, backing prestigious, boundary-pushing cinema, including Jacques Audiard’s Oscar-winning Emilia Pérez, Jim Jarmusch’s Father Mother Sister Brother, and David Cronenberg’s The Shrouds. Through film, Vaccarello inextricably linked the house’s moody aesthetic to the global auteur cinema scene.

The Final Bow (2027)

The tenure culminated with the S/S 2027 golden collection in Paris, sealing a decade defined by cultural omnipresence and aesthetic discipline.

3. Supporting Data: Triumph and the Luxury Slowdown

Vaccarello’s era at Saint Laurent cannot be measured by aesthetics alone; the cold, hard numbers tell a story of astronomical commercial triumph tempered by recent macroeconomic realities.

• Revenue Multiplication: When Vaccarello took over in 2016, Saint Laurent was already a respected name, but under his direction, commercial growth exploded. During his ten years, he successfully tripled the house’s annual revenues, pushing them past the €3 billion milestone.
• Critical Accolades: Industry recognition matched financial success. Most notably, Vaccarello was honored as the International Designer of the Year at the 2026 CFDA Awards, cementing his status among the titans of contemporary fashion design.
• Navigating Headwinds: The final chapters of his tenure, however, were not immune to global economic friction. Like much of the broader luxury sector, Saint Laurent faced a notable market slowdown in recent years, with revenues experiencing a six per cent dip in 2025. Despite these broader headwinds, the house remained one of Kering’s most reliable and culturally relevant flagships.

4. Official Responses: Acknowledging a Legacy

The corporate leadership at Kering, the luxury goods conglomerate that owns Saint Laurent, was quick to honor Vaccarello’s monumental contributions.

Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering, released a statement addressing the departure:

"I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Anthony for his contribution to Saint Laurent over the past ten years. Through his creative vision and exacting standards, he has contributed to strengthening the enduring influence of one of France’s greatest couture houses, as we embark on a new chapter in its history."

The mutual respect between the executive board and the creative director has long been cited as a primary reason for the stability and longevity of Vaccarello’s decade-long run—a rarity in an industry notorious for rapid designer burnout and swift corporate turnover.

5. Implications and What Comes Next: Speculation Over Succession

With Vaccarello’s departure now official, the fashion capitals of Paris, Milan, and New York are locked in a frenzy of speculation regarding who will inherit the keys to the Left Bank institution.

The most prominent rumor circulating through fashion corridors points toward Chemena Kamali, the current creative director of Chloé. Should Kamali be tapped to lead Saint Laurent, it would represent a triumphant homecoming. The German designer is intimately familiar with the house’s inner workings, having previously served as its ready-to-wear design director from 2016 to 2023—working hand-in-hand with Vaccarello during the formative years of his tenure.

As Kering prepares to unveil its next chapter, the industry is left reflecting on the shoes—or rather, the sharply tailored power-suits and towering stilettos—that the next successor will be expected to fill. Anthony Vaccarello didn’t just maintain the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent; he dragged it kicking, screaming, and beautifully gilded into the 21st century, proving that true nocturnal glamour never goes out of style.